THE LAST BITE

Southerner Digs into the Roots of Tailgating

By | August 25, 2018
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The Toll's tailgating Lambulance. Contributed photo
The Toll's tailgating Lambulance. Contributed photo

If a Southerner asks you, “Have you eaten yet?” they’re not necessarily interested what you’ve had for supper. The question is more about your well being, physically and emotionally. Many pairs of feet under the table are important to us. That certain sense of belonging transcends an actual meal and the way I see it, y’all know a thing or two about this, too. Take tailgating for instance. Y’all coined the phrase for goodness sake.

Admittedly, I’ve never painted my face and wielded a giant foam finger at large crowds. My blood only runs red with no fervent alliance attached. Each fall, I watch football fans cheering for perfect strangers with the purest of gusto. I’m always a bit bewildered, partially out of sheer ignorance, but also indifference. But, a party on a crisp fall afternoon with my friends? Oh, that’s never, not a good idea.

Even though this truly American concept dates back to the Civil War, there are several origin theories about the term “tailgating.” There’s a Yale story, along with something about Rutgers vs. Princeton “tail end,” but that’s just picnicking if you ask me.

When the Green Bay Packers were founded in 1919, hometown fans would walk into town, take a streetcar or perhaps circle the field with their vehicles where’d they let down their gates or pop their trunks and break bread together as they cheered their team to victory. While I’m sure there were plenty of pontifications over referee aptitude and rules of engagement, it was a social time folks celebrated.

To gain an accurate historical account, I called up Green Bay Packers Historian, Cliff Christl. He was a sportswriter for 30-plus years and remembers, “Obviously, I wasn’t drinking prior to games. I don’t believe I’ve ever tailgated. Even today, when I go to a football game, I’m there to watch the game.”

He says that parking was always an issue even at Old City Stadium. Back then cars parked behind the Green Bay East High School. While there was some tailgating from the very beginning as he surmises, the tradition has grown in different ways.

‘I’m not sure we were the first, but we do it best.” -- Cliff Christl, Green Bay Packers Historian

Lack of parking hampered tailgating at Old City Stadium behind Green Bay East High School. Contributed photo
Lack of parking hampered tailgating at Old City Stadium behind Green Bay East High School. Contributed photo

“I’m not sure we were the first, but we do it best,” he maintains. At the turn of the twentieth century, folks didn’t gorge themselves on loaded nachos and all-you-can-eat brats. They ate things like ham, potatoes and custards. With prohibition lurking around the corner, you can bet there was a fair share of imbibing going on. Thanks to the 21st Amendment, a robust international food economy and other modern advancements, tailgate parties have become an industry all its own.

“Even since Old City Stadium, the bars were certainly hopping prior to games. That’s when only three games were played there for the entire season. It wasn’t until after 1994 when the Packers quit playing in Milwaukee and the decision was made to play all their home games here that the surrounding area saw a lot of development in terms of bars and restaurants,” says Christl. 

These days companies have partnered with area bars to offer VIP tailgates that include amenities like open bars and unlimited food all under a heated tents for a set price.

Call me crazy, but isn’t this corporate concept just an urban outfitter of sorts? 

It’s the rogue, independent tailgaters I’d like to think I’d gravitate towards. Take Brad and Sandy Toll.

They recently bought a tricked out ambulance that has been wrapped in Packer regalia with a picture of Lambeau Field on the back end. The caption reads “Follow Me To Lambeau” as the green and gold lights flash atop the ambulance. The interior has been converted to almost a shrine of sorts with memorabilia such as a previous contract between Lombardi and a player. There’s an empty Viking trophy case and a miniature bear trap with a stuffed bear caught between its teeth. To complete what Brad calls his “rolling man cave,” there’s even a television for pre-game updates.

The couple usually brings along 10-25 people for their party. The ambulance can actually transport a fair amount of those attendees plus their gear.

“We had been looking at the different ones in the parking lot last fall. Considering the actual loading of all our gear into the SUV, tailgating for four hours, three hours of the game and then another hour of talking with friends, the last thing you want unload everything,” they contend. “We just pull the ambulance into the garage, shut it off and go to bed,” Brad says.

Because of all the compartments there’s plenty of space for items like crockpots and their beloved Nesco cookers. The gurney has been transformed into a rolling bar while craft beer is on tap at the rear of the vehicle. Along the side of the ambulance, there are plugs and a generator perfect for a tailgate feast.

When it comes to food, the Toll’s aren’t messing around.

“We change up our menu depending upon the opposing team. It’s not always brats. If you have an ambulance, you can even serve Thanksgiving dinner if you want to,” Brad says. “The fun part of the game is the socializing at the tailgating. Maybe you share a bratwurst with the rival team, or cheese curds. You have to break these people in with the Green Bay culture. Of course, you hope you win. But, even when your team loses, you never lose because of the fun times.”

I checked the schedule. It looks like the Seahawks, Falcons and Cardinals narrowly escape a “Toll Thanksgiving.”

If you see Brad and Sandy at a game this fall, please hug their necks for me. They’ve shared their beer cheese dip recipe that they like grabbing a handful of pretzels for dipping. If you see Cliff, tell him that I said he’s needed over at the ambulance, stat.